Trust Your Gut, Peru

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (Oh, well.), I would have spent two days visiting Callao, Peru. However, the area where the ship was to dock is listed by every source I checked as one of the most dangerous places to visit in Peru. Before getting off the ship, I would have made sure this was not the case.

Most likely, I would have stayed on board, or just visited the little artist vendors at the pier, but right next to the ship. No wandering around. Hopping on a bus for a ride to see Lima might sound inviting, but I wouldn’t risk it. The crime I read about is organized, and violent. I don’t know this from firsthand experience, of course, but why risk it?

When a single woman travels alone, especially to far away places, she must learn to listen to her gut. When reviewers on TripAdvisor raise a red flag, I pay attention. Sure, there was a disclaimer by TripAdvisor, but again, better safe than sorry. There are hundreds of places on my 3-year-round the world itinerary and skipping one wouldn’t matter in the long run.

If this information had been positive, instead of negative, I would have paid for an excursion to Lima since there are few cultural or architectural attractions in Callao. I visited Peru in 2017 and saw the lovely sand dunes. On this trip, I was interested in seeing the city. I saw a “highlights” tour for just over $100. That would have fit my budget, since I’m not into buying souvenirs.  

The Barranco neighborhood seems to be somewhere I would hang out for awhile. There are lots of art, shopping, restaurants, and stunning architecture. I also like historic centers, and would have enjoyed seeing the old government buildings in Lima. 

In addition to secular buildings, there are several lovely churches in Lima. I would have visited a few before going to the coast. 

I would have ended my visit to Lima in the neighborhood of Miraflores. There are stunning hotels, shops and other points of interest in what I read is a safe area. Then, I would have jumped on my tour bus, and headed back to the ship. Depending upon what I found when I first arrived in Callao, some or none of this would have happened on this trip. It's too bad. The topography in Peru is very different from SoCal where I live,  and I would have enjoyed seeing more of it. 

 

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Chile Again

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (Sadly it didn’t happen), I would have spent several days visiting Chile on my 3-year cruise. I was there before, in 2017. I was surprised by the landscape I saw. It reminded me of Provence, in France. The weather would have been to my liking too. Most of the time during our proposed stay it would have been in the high 60’s or low 70’s, with a light wind.

The first city where we would have landed was Valparaiso. Our timing would have been lucky, as there have been terrible wildfires in the area since. Much of the nearby forest was devastated, and homes were destroyed in Valparaiso. This wouldn’t have been the first occasion when timing was fortuitous for me while traveling. One year touring with students in France, we visited a police station in Paris, as one of my student’s fathers was a deputy sheriff in California. A week after we spent time there, it was bombed.

Valparaiso is another port city, of course, but it’s also known for its steep funiculars and colorful clifftop homes. I would have visited both. I love the funicular just outside of Sacre Coeur in Paris, and in Salzburg, Austria. I have ridden both several times. Love them.

Because of their history of European immigrants, the architecture and cultural institutions are reminiscent of Europe. It’s known as the “Jewel of the Pacific”. It’s home to the Chilean legislative Congress and headquarters of their navy. There are plenty of historic maritime buildings. I would have been pleased that our itinerary put us there for two days, because I enjoy all things maritime.

I would have spent some of my time in the UNESCO historic downtown area. I love artistic, bohemian culture. As I’ve mentioned before, charming, colorful, colonial architecture is my favorite kind. The views there, and from the top of Cerro Concepcion would have kept me entertained. I would have capped off my tour with a visit to the home of the writer, Pablo Neruda. Two of my favorite travel memories were visiting the home of Victor Hugo in Paris, and Claude Monet in Giverny. Adding another historical house tour to my list would have been a thrill.

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Baby, It's Cold Outside

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (I lost time due to the cancellation, but no money), I would have visited both the Falkland Islands and Antarctica this month. We would have also had several sea days, which I enjoy most about cruising. The weather as we traveled south would have become colder, rainy, and windy. I would have missed spending time outside walking on the deck.

I took a cruise south from Los Angeles towards Cape Horn about five years ago. I enjoyed that cruise very much. There was lots to see and do, plus the weather cooperated. As we headed south, I realized I wouldn’t enjoy the last leg of the cruise, so I disembarked near Santiago, Chile and flew home instead of completing the itinerary. I wouldn’t have had this luxury on my 3-year cruise. But as with other long cruises I have taken, there would be plenty to do while onboard and new friends to make.

Heartier people than I would enjoy disembarking on the islands. Although the terrain is rugged near the cliffs along the coast, there’s both birdlife and sheep farms to see. In town, there’s the Falkland Islands Museum, with themed galleries focused on maritime exploration and natural history. It would be a pleasant visit and easy for passengers to enjoy, since the island’s native language is English. This would have been a welcome break after so much Portuguese and Spanish.

After a few more days at sea, yippee, we would have arrived in Antarctica. Our first stop would have been Deception Island. It’s in the South Shetland Islands, close to the Antarctic Peninsula. Although it’s summer in the southern hemisphere, it would be far too cold for me, in the mid 30’s. Again, hearty passengers, those without health conditions when breathing cold air, would love it.

The terrain was created by an active volcano, and it shows. There are no inhabitants on the island, except for wildlife, seals, whales, penguins, and other varieties of birds. Photographers would go nuts. Even if shooting from the deck of the ship, with the right lenses, photographs would be stunning.

The second cold, cold stop would have been Half Moon Island. It’s farther south, and colder. The terrain is a mix, but what impresses me the most is the rock outcrops and cliffs. Lovely. The sea is also impressive, as it is very blue and clear. Of course, there are few visitors to mess it up.

I doubt we would have been allowed to visit the island itself, although I know some ships do visit remote, uninhabited islands. Our cruise ship was small enough to get close, drop anchor and let us observe from a safe distance. We wouldn't have been a scientific group, so I think going ashore wouldn't be allowed. The safety I referred to is not for the passengers, but for the wildlife and vegetation.

After leaving, we would have rounded Cape Horn and headed north. Although seeing the wildlife would have been fabulous, and taking photographs enjoyable, the cold temperatures would have been hard on me, asthma stinks. Going north, therefore, would mean I could take laps around the deck outside, and perhaps go ashore. I know the next few stops on the itinerary would have been familiar territory for me. I know I liked them in the past, and would no doubt find them pleasurable.

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Don't Cry for Me

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (all my money was refunded), I would have spent four days this month in Argentina. The first city we would have visited is Buenos Aires, the capital of the country. Two days isn’t enough for this big, cosmopolitan city. However, the weather cooperated, was only 81 degrees, with pleasant humidity. It’s summer there, and these conditions would have been a welcome relief from the tropics.

It's yet another coastal city with gorgeous neoclassical architecture. I would have taken an organized half day city tour first ($55/adult), since it’s so large. I have done this in every large city I have visited over the years. It gives me an overview and lets me know where I want to spend more time.

I’ve heard about Recoleta in Buenos Aires before. It consists of a series of palaces and mansions designed by French architects. It resembles parts of Paris because of this. It’s one of the places I would spend extra time, perhaps wandering the streets and then having lunch with the locals in a restaurant there. I always enjoy breaking away from the tourist spots and finding where the locals dine. Never had a bad experience doing so.

The last place I would enjoy spending some time is the Bosques de Palermo. It’s the largest park in Buenos Aires, and well maintained. There are lakes with geese and ducks, as well as manicured lawns and rose gardens. Roses have a special place in my heart, as I once had a garden of twenty-four bushes. Since I lived in Southern California, they bloomed all year. My house was full of their scent. I miss that.

After a full day at sea, my favorite place, we would have visited the port city of Bahia Blanca. There’s more stunning architecture here, like what can be found in Buenos Aires. There are also many gorgeous parks, some near the coast. Honestly, I would probably stay onboard the ship instead of going ashore to explore. The city so much like Buenos Aires, although smaller, I would relax on the ship, enjoying the peace and quiet after most passengers left for the day. It would be a great time to have a pedicure and manicure, maybe even a haircut.

The final city we would have visited in Argentina is Puerto Madryn, which is on the northern edge of Patagonia. I was excited to visit here, sadly it was not to be. The coastline is the draw for me. There are wide sandy beaches and stunning cliffs. Add to this a vibrant city and the interesting addition of the Welsh language, and it would have been fascinating to stay for the day (or more). 

I would have spent the one day allowed by the itinerary on a small boat seeking out wildlife such as orcas and right whales. I'm sure we would have spotted Magellanic penguins too, since there are over 1,500,000 of them in the area. I understand no cruise, even one three years long, can stay several days in each port, but Patagonia deserves more than one day. I would have been sad to leave after such a short stop. 

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Using My Spanish

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (no one went), I would have spent all of December in Brazil, and then visited Montevideo, Uruguay. It would have been a relief to be in a Spanish speaking country after so long being where I don’t know the language.

I took up Spanish at the beginning of the pandemic using the Duolingo app. So, communication wouldn’t have been a problem. The weather would have been a vast improvement too. It stayed in the high 70’s while we were scheduled to visit the area. Neither wind nor humidity would have been an issue either.

As the capital of Uruguay, Montevideo is a major city with a large population. It’s on a lovely bay and has the kind of architecture I enjoy. There’s lots of Art Deco buildings in the Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) along with historic colonial homes, churches, museums, theaters, and landmarks.

The city was ranked number one for the quality of life in Latin America in 2019. It stayed number one through 2005. It’s considered a “global city” and has a vibrant economy. This would make it a lovely place to live and to visit.

We were only scheduled to stay in Montevideo for one day. That’s a pity since it has so much to offer. I would have liked to spend a full day in the Old Town and another taking an organized city tour, (at about $48 per person). Since it has a vibrant theater culture, I would have found a play or concert to attend in the evening. But with only one day in the city, I would have spent it in Old town. Art Deco is one of my favorite types of architecture.

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A Little France in Brazil

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (sadly went pear-shaped), I would be in São Luís, Brazil today. This city unlike the others we were to visit so far, was settled by the French in 1612. The original name was Saint-Louis-de-Maragnan. It’s the largest city, and capital of the Brazilian state of Maranhão. Since I taught French for several decades, this should be fun for me.

Another fun fact, the weather is more to my liking there today, but will go right back up by ten degrees after we leave. It only hit 80 degrees today, although the humidity is still high, at 81%. This will be another challenge for my asthma, which is why I’d take along my rescue inhaler and my portable nebulizer, CLICK HERE (ad). 

The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site because it still has the original street plan. I’m hoping for lots of gorgeous architecture too. São Luis is located on an island, with two estuaries. I’m sure this means there will be many birds here. I’d make sure my iPhone was fully charged to take photos. There are also several universities nearby, which means the city will be alive with young people. As a retired teacher, I find the buzz this creates invigorating.  

The city is also known for its use of tiles, especially in the historical city center. I’d definitely visit this part of the city and take a private walking tour at a cost of about $45 per adult. Sao Luis has the nickname, The Tiles City and Brazilian Athens. 

I would make sure to be in the city center for lunch, find a nice restaurant and enjoy Reggae music with my meal. Reggae is very popular here, almost as much as it is in Jamaica. From what I’ve learned about the transportation system in the area, it would be easy to get around either by bus or their inter-city rail system. After a full day, it would be back to the cruise ship to decompress and take a much needed shower. 

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See How Brazilians Live

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (didn’t happen), I would be in Belem, Brazil right now. Belem is the capital and largest city in the state of Para, in the north of Brazil. Another hot day in the tropics, 90 degrees, 73% humidity, but as with the last few cities on our itinerary, thunder and lightning happened before our arrival date, and will happen after. Love having good weather luck. It’s important to take the right kind of clothing when traveling to the tropics, CLICK HERE (ad). 

Belem is the educational and cultural center of the north. Since these are my two favorite things, I’m sure to enjoy visiting. It has a very modern appearance and is not a typical tourist destination. The sights I would visit here are those enjoyed by the inhabitants. This would give me insight into the way Brazilians live today. However, it’s not a safe place to wander around by yourself. I would probably plan my day with another passenger or two, and just visit these places during daylight hours.

My first visit would be near the port, Guajara Bay, and the riverfront district of Cidade Velha, with is the old town. I usually prefer seeing old towns, probably because there aren’t any left where I grew up in SoCal. This area has Portuguese-colonial architecture and colorful azulejo-tile houses. There’s also a fort here, named Forte do Presepio. In addition to enjoying the architecture, one of my favorite things to do in new places, I’d stroll through the Ver-o-Peso, open-air market. If I wanted to buy handicrafts, this would be the place to do so.

There are several museums, cathedrals and cultural centers in Belem. If time permits, it would be easy to visit several. If, however, the outdoors is your preference, there are just as many parks and botanical gardens. Remember, this isn't the safest place to wander around alone. Life Lesson: Participating in a guided excursion might be best. I would wait to visit such places while in a safer (and cooler) environment. 

For more information about the customs of Brazil, CLICK HERE (ad).

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Change of Pace, Manaus, Brazil

 

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (no such luck), I would be in Manaus, Brazil right now. My luck with weather is holding. It’s partly sunny, high of 88 degrees today, humidity down to 66%, with rain forecast for tomorrow. Being in the center of a rainforest, rain is fairly common here.

Manaus is the seventh largest city in the Brazilian state of Amazonas, so my hope for a larger city has come true. It’s very built up, complete with highways, an airport, skyscrapers, and other modern buildings. It’s on the coast, of course. Surprisingly ships dock directly downtown, which is also on the banks of the river Negro. This river is much cleaner than the Amazon, which is mostly brown. It’s interesting to see where the two rivers meet. I would definitely schedule a tour boat excursion to see the fascinating Meeting of the Waters. I'd certainly take a hat for protection from the sun, CLICK HERE (ad). 

The zoo and orchid greenhouse are open to the public. Not sure I would visit the zoo, but the orchid greenhouse would be something I would certainly enjoy. I would also stroll through the Mercado Adolpho Lisboa, which is modeled after Les Halles in Paris, which I have visited in the past. If there’s a guided tour of the Adolpho Ducke Botanical Garden, I would sign up for that too.

There are lots of shopping areas in the city, complete with food courts and movie theaters. Seeing a movie in Brazil would be fun. I’m pretty sure many English-speaking movies would be dubbed into Portuguese, or maybe they would have subtitles. No matter, I would find it interesting, since I am a polyglot.

After stopping in one small town after another, this city would be a refreshing change of pace. I’m not usually into big cities, however, it would be nice to see how people live in a big city in Brazil, and to spend a few days there taking advantage of all it has to offer. to learn more about Manaus, Brazil, CLICK HERE (ad). 

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Standing in Two Hemispheres

If things had gone as planned with the 3-year cruise I signed up for in March 2023 (The cruise was cancelled), I would be beginning a month log exploration of various ports in Brazil today. We would be landing in Macapa, Brazil, which is a major population center and the capital of the state of Amapa, in the northern part of Brazil.

Speaking of location, the equator passes through the center of the town of Macapa. I never expected to be this close to the equator, let alone be able to stand on both sides of it at the same time. This is definitely on my to-do list. 

The temperature today is expected to be 91 degrees, 70% humidity and partly cloudy. Although this doesn’t sound great, the forecast for the days before and after was for more heat. Later in the week thunderstorms are expected. So, all in all, not bad for the tropics.

An interesting thing about this town, it’s on a peninsula, and is only accessible by sea or by air. You cannot drive to Macapa from anywhere. This affects everything here. There’s so much water, not only because it’s on the coast, but it’s also at the mouth of the Amazon. I’d wear the mosquito retarding clothing I bought for the trip, light colors, a hat, and gloves, despite the heat, CLICK HERE (ad).

My must-see list is very short due to the weather and the bugs. I’d visit the Fortaleza de Sao Jose de Macapa, since I understand it’s beautiful, well-kept, and directly on the coast. It’s the largest Portuguese fort outside of Portugal. Lunch would be at one of the riverside restaurants.

Although I don’t speak Portuguese, both English and French are taught in the schools here, so I shouldn’t have any trouble communicating. Since I have food allergies, I’d take a laminated 3x5 card with me with a list of foods I must avoid translated into Portugues. I’ve taken such cards with me when I’ve dined in foreign countries in the past. It eliminated problems. A real Life Lesson.

The Centro de Pesquisas Museologicas Museum would be an interesting destination, but I’ve been warned about standing water there, and lots of mosquitos. Since the number of plants and animals it contains is limited, for me, it’s not worth the risk.

Marco Zero is a landmark showing the Equator line, where the Northern and Southern Hemispheres meet. There’s really nothing to do there, except marvel that you’re there. However, experiences is why I decided to sign up for a 3-year cruise in the first place, so I would visit, bask in the novelty of the moment, and take way too many photographs. There’s a gift shop that’s receives great reviews, so although I probably wouldn’t buy anything there, I’d visit, nonetheless.

Although there are several other things to do in Macapa, none of them outweighs the tropical weather and all that comes with it for me. For the more adventurous, however, there are other museums and attractions.  I'd spend the rest of the day onboard, taking full advantage of the air conditioning. 

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